FaceUp3D reconstructs depth from an ordinary photo and turns it into a clean, print-ready STL — the kind of file that comes off the printer looking like it was actually struck, not just extruded. A wide range of filtering, editing, and geometry options give you control over exactly how it turns out.
No account needed to try it.
move your cursor across the coin — same relief, different light
FaceUp3D reconstructs depth from a single photograph and turns it into a bas-relief — the raised, one-sided detail you'd find on a coin, medallion, plaque, or stamp. It's not a substitute for 3D scanning or full sculpting software, and it won't produce a free-standing model meant to be viewed from every angle. If your project needs to be struck, embossed, or mounted flat, this is the right tool. If it needs to be walked around, it isn't.
A raw photo rarely makes a good relief on its own — noise, harsh reflections, and busy backgrounds all turn into printed artifacts. Edit before you convert, and the model comes out clean the first time.
Blur, sharpen, and denoise to settle a noisy photo before it becomes a bumpy print.
Pull out the lines that actually matter — hairlines, jaw, fabric folds — so fine detail survives at print scale.
Balance exposure and color cast so luminance — which becomes physical height — reads accurately.
Stretch or compress the tonal range to control exactly how much relief depth your printer has to resolve.
Every project starts the same way — an image and a set of edits — but where it ends up is up to you. Pick the geometry that matches what you're making, then tune size, thickness, and projection to fit your printer.
A flat plaque or stamp face, single- or double-sided, with adjustable width, thickness, and projection depth.
Wrap your relief around a cylinder — with an optional logo on the end cap — for mugs, rings, and cylindrical medallions.
Add up to five more images to the remaining faces, for a block with a different relief on every side.
Draw your own lathe profile — a coin edge, a bezel, a vase — and use it as the base your relief sits on.
Medals, plaques, and stamps follow the exact same path — only the geometry changes.